Shaolin Adventures in Disneyland

by Greg Lynch Jr.

I am not the "go to" guy for treatises about the martial arts world. If you want some funny anecdotes about Hollywood or if you want a fencing store built, I can help you out in a heartbeat. If you want the difference between guan dar and guan dao, I'm out. There is one area of the martial arts world in which I can show some expertise. I can photograph it. I can snap frames with the best of them.

When I was asked to cover the arrival of Abbot Shi Yongxin of the Songshan China Shaolin Temple, I didn't see any problems. My job was to cover the Abbot's swing through the Southland. I was to take the photographs and write a few paragraphs about Abbot Shi Yongxin's activities. My article would be the addendum to a much longer piece written by the professionals. The Abbot's itinerary for the trip included the Bowers Museum in Santa Ana, the Pacific Asian Museum in Pasadena, and Disneyland Park in Anaheim.

Disneyland Park? I was going to have a chance to shoot the venerable leader of a 1500-year-old Chinese temple at Disneyland? Who do I have to pay to get that job? I thought my head was going to explode at the possibilities. Who wouldn't want a picture of Abbot Shi Yongxin with Mickey Mouse in the shadow of the Matterhorn? Be still my beating heart. I don't think I slept for two nights straight thinking about it.

They had a pre-press conference at the Pacific Asia Museum to kick off the Shaolin Cultural Journeys week. The representatives from the Bowers Museum and Pacific Asia Museum spoke about their events with the Abbot. Director Shi Yanxu spoke about the newest Shaolin Temple in Temple City and the Taking Refuge ceremony. They even had a representative from Disneyland. It had to be true! The Abbot in Disneyland was going to happen.

Then the most terrible thing occurred. Meiling Su of the Shaolin Temple Cultural Center asked me how long I needed for my interview with the Abbot. I beg your pardon? I was supposed to do a one-on-one interview with the Abbot?

The people from the Shaolin Temple Cultural Center had gone out of their way to be nice to me. This was too much. I had a personal meeting with the new director. They kept feeding me. They arranged for me to get into all of the Abbot's events for free. They obviously took me for a person of greater importance than was the case. I'm the camera jockey. I put up funny videos. They wanted me to personally interview the Abbot? I don't speak Mandarin. He doesn't speak English. In my Western-centric mind, I was equating the Abbot with the Pope. You don't let the part-time photographer interview the Pope.

When I was faced with the impossible question of how long did I need for my interview, I did the only thing I could. I told them I needed at least fifteen minutes. They said fine.

The thought of interviewing the Abbot had the same effect on my sleep patterns as the thought of photographing the Abbot at Disneyland. I didn't sleep. There was one crucial difference between the two sleep losses. I was elated about the photographs. I was petrified about the interview. What was I going to ask? How do I avoid looking a fool? Or even better, what were the faux pas I could commit that would irrevocably damage the relations between the Shaolin Temple and my employer?

I was given an out. When I told my boss about the upcoming interview, he said the interview portion of the article was already being taken care of. The abbot was going to be interviewed in San Francisco for the article. I just needed to get a few highlights.

Lack of sleep beckoned again. Should I turn down an interview with a world renowned figure no matter how meager my Shaolin Knowledge? My friend Hubris wouldn't let me take that option. The interview would go forward as planned.

They held the main press conference for the local Chinese language media on Tuesday. There was a rather awkward moment as the conference started and they realized that one member of the press in attendance didn't speak Mandarin. All eyes looked to me to see if I needed to slow down proceedings with a translator. I told them to carry on. I'd be happy with just photographs. I'd get answers to my fabulous questions later during my solo interview.

In another sign of the graciousness of the Shaolin Temple Cultural Center, they supplied me with a translator. I had emailed my questions to Meiling and they had forwarded them to the translator. The translator circled three of the twenty questions I submitted as appropriate. For some reason, my questions about Jet Li and the Shaolin Temple movies were beneath the Abbot's dignity in the eyes of my translator. Oh God. What else was I going to talk about?

We used the Director's office for the interview. I think the temperature for the room was set to bake. Martial arts training must make you less susceptible to heat as I was the only one sweating out my pits in the room.

The Abbot was having a nice chat with the translator. I was thinking the Abbot might rather have used my fifteen minutes swapping anecdotes. As they spoke, I pondered what questions could I actually pose to the Abbot that weren't beneath his dignity. I eventually went with what I wrote only leaving out the question about Jet.

On the whole, the interview was a disjointed experience. I put it down to language problems. I'd ask questions. I'd hear a long answer from the Abbot. Then I would get what couldn't possibly be the entire translation because it sounded like it was a hundred words shorter. Or I would get an answer back that wasn't quite the question I asked. The best moments came when the translator would say one thing and then Director Li of the Songshan Shaolin Temple would say that wasn't quite it. During these times of conflict between Translator and Director Li, the Abbot would read his magazine or maybe get in a little meditation. I'd work on making my sweat stains bigger.

GL: Have you enjoyed your trip to California?

Abbot: Yes, very much.

GL: Where are you going from here?

Abbot: To Disneyland, Universal Studios, Hollywood.

Before the interview, I'd been told the Abbot wasn't going to Disneyland. My mind flew into overdrive that he might be going to the park after all. He did follow up the Hollywood statement with another phrase, but I didn't give the translator a chance to answer.

GL: So, you'll be attending the Disneyland on this weekend?

You can hear the excitement in my voice as I scrambled out this question. I was hoping he was going. Hoping. Hoping. Hoping.

Director Li: He'll be leaving Thursday morning.

Hope fades quickly. No pictures of the Pope with Mickey.

GL: Why did you choose California for the first Temple?

Abbot: There is good Karma here. California is very receptive to Shaolin culture. A lot of people know about it and there is a large Chinese speaking community. It was easy to communicate.

GL: What are you trying to teach at these centers?

Abbot: My idea is to blend in with the native culture, the native religion, the native philosophy to merge it into one Shaolin Culture.

Director Li: Shaolin Culture is the result of communication from the India Culture to the Chinese Culture. We're really enjoying it. The reason that Shaolin is here is not only communicate with other people but to find a common value, to reach the peace for our own future.

GL: What is the biggest misconception Americans have about Shaolin?

Abbot: Americans will understand and accept a culture that is good. Americans are smart enough to figure this out for themselves.

GL: Do you think there will one day be an American Shaolin Demonstration Team?

Abbot: If that is meant to be, it will be.

GL: At what point will you consider the American Shaolin Temple a success?

Abbot: When the American government accepts and sponsors the Temple, it will then be considered a success.

I was fortunate enough to take a picture with the Abbot at the end of the interview, sweaty armpits and all. I had my interview. The hard part was over. All I had to do now was follow the Abbot around Southern California, shoot the photographs and take notes.

I heard the Abbot speak at the Bowers Museum. I shot a ton of photographs of the demonstrations. I even got some videos, which I posted on line. I was a long-tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs. Granted, I was a really big slow cat, but I was in there. What I'm trying to say is I was hopping.

I went to my first Taking Refuge ceremony. I photographed the Abbot inaugurating the first Shaolin Temple here in Los Angeles. It's all about branding, people. Use it or lose it.

The thrill waned mid-week. The Abbot returned to China despite some events left on the Shaolin Tour dance card. Director Lee Li and two of the four traveling monks were left behind to do a lecture at the Pacific Asia Museum.

For the Abbot's Bowers Museum speech, five hundred people attended; many, including photographers, were standing in the aisles. Director Li got about fifty. Sit where you like.

I gamely made my way to the Anaheim Convention Center for the Shaolin demonstration that was to be held during the Disney Martial Arts tournament. I talked to the Disney rep, so I had a free pass.

As a first aside, if you are going to have a tournament like this, does it really make sense to charge admission to spectators? You aren't getting a lot of people off the streets coming to watch eleven and twelve-year-olds hit each other or do forms. You're asking parents to shell out yet more money after they've paid tournament participation fees to watch their children perform.

The demo was the nadir of the week. It wasn't really announced. I don't think people were aware that it was actually occurring unless they walked by and happened to see Master Xu and a couple of his students. He had about nine people. I shot my shots, because I was there. It was nothing to write home about. It looked like the grand Shaolin Tour - which had started so promisingly at the Bowers Museum - was whimpering to a sad death in the bowels of the Anaheim Convention Center.

At this point, I was done with the Shaolin experience. I was sick of driving down the 5 past Highway 91. It's a twenty-mile journey that takes two hours. I had already done this joyful drive three times. I'd be happy never to go to Orange County again. Unfortunately, there was still one more item left: The demonstration and parade inside Disneyland.

After the events at the Pacific Asia Museum and Convention Center, my enthusiasm had turned to ice. It approached absolute zero when Rick, the Disney rep, warned me I had to get there two hours early in order to get in the park. Crowds at Disney over the weekend were huge. Can you see where this is heading? Plus, there had only been Sifu Xu at the Convention Center. I was afraid he'd be the only one at Disneyland, too. My job was to get pictures of the visiting Shaolin monks in action, not the expatriates living here in the United States.

Sunday - the day of the event - came and I pondered long and hard about actually going. It came down to the fact I had a free ticket. I'd never had a free ticket before. That kind of clinched it. I loaded up my camera. I left the video camera in the bag, despite the fact Rick had told me I couldn't shoot video. He also said I couldn't shoot any of the costumed characters. Old habits die hard. I brought the video camera.

The trip south only took an hour and half. It was going really well until the accident blocked the freeway near the 91.

The lines at the parking structure weren't horrendous, but the only spots were on the roof in the Minnie section. I left the video camera in the car. I didn't want to wait for an hour and a half to get my ticket and then be turned away by security because of my camera.

I arrived at the park a little before three. I got into the park a little after three. The longest wait was for the tram at the parking garage. They only gave my camera bag a cursory glance as they ushered me through the security checkpoint. I walked right up to the guest services window where they gave me a park hopper pass. I could go to both California Adventure and Disneyland if I had the inclination. I wish I were sixteen so this ticket would not be such a waste.

One more aside. I think Orange County and Disneyland have formed a pack to drive Knott's Berry Farm out of business. The worst section of road work on the Five is where you need to exit for Knott's. It's hard to tell even where to get off for that park. At that spot, there is a maze of concrete barricades and relined freeway lines and abrupt signs for the exits. Once you get past there, it's six lanes of smooth sailing concrete. You see hundreds of signs for the Disney resort and the off ramp takes you right into the Disney Parking structure. I'm just saying. One park has beautiful access. The other has the labyrinth. You make the call.

I'm in Disneyland with two hours to kill. I find the dumpy little spot near Sleeping Beauty's Castle where they are going to hold the martial arts demonstration. Okay, it's not dumpy but it is small and kind of off the beaten path. It's on the shortcut from Fantasy Land to Frontier Land. I keep hoping for a grander stage for the kung fu demonstrations. It's Shaolin Temple! Shouldn't they be front and center at Carnegie?

In the two hours I had to kill, I wandered the park taking photographs. I was going to do photos of women falling out of their tops, but I didn't think I would have enough memory cards to do that photo survey justice. I read a magazine. I kept an eye on the theater in case a huge crowd suddenly appeared. Even with twenty minutes to go, I still had all the access I needed. I was ready to take a few snaps and beat my retreat. Then it changed. At 5, the crowd finally thickened. A group of Disney Handlers and photographers started their crowd massage.

The Shaolin group started the bill. Two of Shi Xu's students started the show. Then, the two remaining monks from China. Shi Yanzo and Shi Yankai did their performance. It ended with Shi Xu doing his guan dao. They got a huge round of applause. They were the best part of the performance. Second place went to a Wudang master. The rest were kids and groups from Saturday's martial arts tournament. The show ended slowly with a performance by a hip hop martial arts demo team. I think it was just three guys jumping around without any rhyme or reason.

I found Director Li and Beng from the Temple City Shaolin Temple. I floated the idea that it would be nice to get some shots of the monks around the park. Director Li agreed. I went to "excited" on the enthusiasm scale. My dream of pictures of monks enjoying Disneyland was coming to fruition.

At this point, I became part of the martial arts demonstration entourage. I went behind the scenes at Disneyland. How often do you get to do that? The next event for the evening was a parade down Main Street for the members of the demonstration teams and the kids from Saturday's tournament.

I only got in trouble once when I took a picture of the monks in the holding area behind Main Street. The Disney people frown on pictures behind the scenes. They eventually shooed the people that weren't part of the parade out of the holding area and out onto main street.

As I turned the corner, the Disney Minions were roping off the street. Disney was treating this like it was a real event as opposed to something they were contractually obligated to perform.

The parade was short. It lasted a block of Main Street. But if you put up the ropes, people will sit down to watch. The Main Street sidewalks were packed as the Dragon Troupe turned the corner and headed towards Sleeping Beauty's castle. I thought they were just going to march and wave. But halfway through the course, the parade stopped. Master Xu and Master Yankai started to do some forms. The crowd was ecstatic over this very energetic performance. I don't think Yanzo got into the spirit. He stood in the center of the street and looked inscrutable. I heard one excited parent exclaim about the great karate being performed in front of them. I almost turned. I almost spoke. I let it go. Here were thousands of middle Americans being exposed to kung fu. I was excited. Finally, Shaolin was getting the audience it deserved.

The parade continued onward, back into the holding area. I was left on the street. I headed over to Tomorrow Land where they were supposed to be released. They weren't there. I did a little panic. I thought I'd missed my chance at the Disney/monk conjunction photograph. Crap.

After several patrols, the monks appeared. Director Li said it was my time to photograph. I envisioned wandering around for the evening and shooting hundreds of pictures. They told me to pick one spot. The phrase about beggars and choosers ran through my mind. We headed for Sleeping Beauty's Castle. I took some stand ups. Nothing too exciting, but I had the conjunction photograph. It turned out to be a family snap rather than my NatGeo cover. It was the compromise photo. The monks were off to their next engagement.

I followed them towards the main gate. I tried to get Director Li to stop at the Walt and Mickey statue, but he gave me the headshake that says no. It had been a long week for his group. They were flying home on Monday and all they had was one more appointment and they would be done. It wasn't time to dawdle in the park with photo boy.

At the Fire Engine house, the group stopped for a bathroom break. Shi Yankai, amazingly pulled out his own camera for some shots of the Celebrate Disney Parade that had just started behind him. Since I was standing there, he handed me the camera to take his picture with the parade as a background. Since he was posing, I took a picture with my camera, which I had kept hopefully in my hand. Shi Kai was very gracious.

Since Shi Kai had his picture snapped, I might as well take a picture of Shi Xu, right? Wait a second, why not take a picture of Shi Zo, too? Snap. Ah, Bliss. I was shooting pictures left and right. The monks started to enjoy this exercise. Suddenly I was doing group shots in front of the train station. The last shots I took were on the tram to the parking lot. I handed out my card and made promises to send my new monk friends the pictures.

In the end, it was my favorite day of the tour. I spent a lot of time talking with Director Li about Shaolin kung fu in America. I got to take some photos of monks in Disneyland. I got to go behind the scenes. And I got to do it for free. What's not to like about that?

	Discuss this article online
	Songshan Shaolin Temple Day

About Greg Lynch Jr.:
Photography also provided by Greg Lynch Jr.